Star's Motorcycle Trip To Arctic Circle
Journal Dates -- Year Month Day
By -- Star Motorcycle Enthusiast
2001, June 24 - Sunday
The last two nights have been nothing less than a whorl-wind. First there was getting out of town. You know the start of a five week motorcycle trip across North America.
The night before the morning of my planned departure provided a few unforeseen problems. My cell phone went on the blitz and needed to be replaced. The headlight of my BMW 1100RT decided not to function properly and needed a new bulb. The sister that I've been seeing, her birthday was coming up the day I was scheduled to leave. She insisted on dinner and a late night, till four am good by. I was tired the next morning, with a late start and two to three hours of additional errands that were unplanned, do to the problems of my phone and headlight.
A friend whom I haven't talked to in over five years stopped by Saturday morning as I was packing. He is a fellow biker who has travelled a lot and was offering to help. With his assistance we got my stuff packed and the new bulb installed on my bike. Speaking of my headlight I replaced the stock bulb that came with the bike with a PIAA heligion bright white bulb when I bought my bike. I think its one of the most important things to do. With the added brilliance of the bulb, car drivers have a better chance of spotting me on the road. Considering this trip to be approximately 15,000 miles, I want to give every driver I encounter a better chance to see me.
I packed two duffel bags, two hard case lockable saddlebags, one hard case lockable racked mounted suit case, and of course my tent. It sounds like a lot of baggage, but it isn't. Maybe an inventory would be useful along with an explanation of how I pack. The saddlebags I designate one for easy access clothing like a fleece pull over and tee shirt, spare helmet. Motorcycle ridding is an outside activity, during the course of the day its easy to encounter hot weather changing to cool weather. Once everything is strapped to my bike the last thing I want to do is take it all apart just to find a warm jacket or cool shirt. The other saddlebag stores rain gear and navigational aids. I carry a road atlas and a few regional fold-out maps. The road atlas doesn't give a regional view but does provide the detail. Its hard to plot a trip across three or four pages of an atlas. This is where the fold-out map comes in handy. Its not uncommon for me to cover 700 to 800 miles in one day, so the regional view is important. I pick up the fold-out maps in gas stations as I'm traveling.
The duffel bags have individual responsibilities as well. One is for my clothing and dirty laundry. The other for camping equipment. Since everything is sorted out and stored in specific containers its easy to find things and to know what is missing with a glance. I hate having to turn back because I forgot an important item.
Hunting around for all the right "stuff" is the most important part of any long trip. Thinking out and predicting problems, finding solutions and the "stuff" that makes things work takes time. Almost every item has to be multi-functional due to storage limitations. I'll be riding in 90 to 110 degree weather and 35 degree weather, sometimes within a matter of a few days, trying to keep my cloths clean will become a chore and there is room only for a few things. Fleece Pull-Overs and Nylon shirts are best because they can be washed in a motel room sink and dry in a matter of minutes (handy when caught in the rain too). Fleece works in both hot and cold temperatures. Fleece maintains your body's temperature, hot stays cool and cold stays warm. This trip I opted for my six man tent vs my two man tent. I'll be spending close to twenty nights in the tent and I prefer to be able to get dressed in the tent standing. Of course I had to trade off the extra space for the bigger tent for a few of my other camping items.
For electronic gear I brought along this notebook computer to write my journal in. I have Internet access which provides better weather reports than the TV. My digital camera to take photos. A satellite phone in addition to my cell phone, incase of problems at the Arctic Circle.
My trip started around 3PM on Saturday the 23rd of June. the first leg was just a warm up ride to Henniker New Hampshire to meet up with a few friends at a Russian Summer Solstice celebration. It was an easy ride north on I91 through Connecticut, Massachusetts, Vermont. A right turn north on RT 9 to the campsite in New Hampshire. Roughly four hours. I lucked out and missed the rain clouds that where dampening the highways in the North East. I camped out that night, celebrated with my friends, had breakfast the next morning, packed and got underway around 1PM the next day. I traveled west on I89 to Burlington Vermont. Switched over to RT 2 west through Lake Champlain into New York, west on RT 11 and RT 37 to Ogdensburg. Turned north and crossed over Lake Ontario to Ottawa Canada. I do not recommend this bridge to anyone with a week hart. Its an all metal bridge (no black top) its very high and you can see the water below your feet. Oh, and it has strong winds blowing all the time. And never stay at the Kings Motel in Ottawa. Its a flea bag. I can't wait to leave tomorrow.
2001 06 27 Wednesday
The last two days I've covered over 750 miles from Ottawa Canada to Bergland Michigan. I followed Canadian highway 17 through the gentle mountains of the Algonouin Provincial Park sloping down into the farmlands of Ontario through North Bay, Sudbury and into Sault Ste Marie. Highway 17 runs north of the Lake Huron and Georgian Bay. Canadian roads are smooth and easy to ride. The Ontario Provincial Police keep a tight rain on the speeds most people drive, at 100 km / 60 mph. So its slow going but the views of the Great Lakes are worth slowing down for. I stayed at a small motel called Parkers in Iron Bridge Ontario. If you ever come this way its the place to stay. The price can't be beat $40 Canadian / $18 US. Comfortable and clean, even had a picnic area on the river.
Along the way to North Bay I caught up with an older fellow and his daughter riding a Harley with sidecar, pulling a trailer. It was an interesting rig to say the least. He showed me he had over 200,000 miles on his hog. Original motor and all. I didn't know those bikes could run so long.
The next morning I got a late start. Stayed up watching TV, something I never do at home since I don't have cable. Rode into Sault Ste Marie for breakfast. Gassed up and took the bridge into the US. It turned out to be a construction day on the bridge so traffic was stop and go. It was good though, it gave me an opportunity to see all the industry and ports below the bridge. It looks as if Sault Ste Marie is a big logging town on the Canadian side and lots of mining materials on the US side.
The next stretch of road is Michigan's M-28. It follows Lake Superior and cuts across Hiawatha National Forest. This road is perfectly straight for hundreds of miles. I found myself running many times at around 100 mph. About one third of the way to US Highway 2, I overtook a State Trooper who pulled over to let me by. I immediately throttled down to 70 when I realized who it was. He didn't ticket me but did follow me for thirty or forty miles making sure that I got the message.
Tonight I'm in Bergland at the Lake Gogebic motel. Nice place, inexpensive $30 comes with a free phone, so I get to go on-line and check-up on things and dispatch my journal to Lady Hard Drive.
Tommorow looks like its going to be slow going.... Rain, with the first stop in Duluth, WI.
2001 06 28 Thursday
I woke up in the middle of the night running a slight fever due to sun stroke from the day before. Decided it would be best to sleep in the next morning, I got a very late start around noon time. At least I was feeling much better.
Today I covered close to 500 miles. I made it through Duluth Minnesota with out any delay. Traveled west on US 2. Along the way around Lake Superior I kept running into pockets of a 65 degree cold front coming off the lake. I must of pulled over four or five times removing or adding my fleece pullover. The temperatures varied from 90 degrees to 65 in just a matter of fifteen minutes.
I picked up speed traveling west through Grand Rapids and Bemidji. Much of this stretch of road is through Leech Lake Indian Reservation. Yes every fifty or so miles there is a casino. US 2 is straight with lots of passing lanes so its easy to maintain an average speed of 75 or 80. West of Bemidji the Great Plains begin. By the time I reached Grand Forks North Dakota the Plains had taken full charge of the diminishing forest line opening up large unobstructed views of the grasses of the West. Traffic also picked up the pace. When I entered North Dakota US 2 had become a four laner with speeds of 90 and 100 mph.
I had my first mishap today in Bagley. I stopped at a Fifties style Malt Shop for a burger. Left my bike on its kickstand in the soft pavement. When I came out after having lunch I found my bike laying on its side. Thanks for German engineering, the break-a-way mirrors performed as designed and my bike suffered no damage other than my humility of not remembering hot sun means soft black top.
From Grand Forks I made some good time keeping pace with a red Ford F-150 doing 100 mph to Devils Lake. Its here I found the Davis Motel for only $30. Clean, on the lake, lots of fish. Next trip I pack a fold up fishing rod.
2001 06 30 Saturday
Its been a few days since I visited my notebook. The ride from Devils Lake North Dakota to Malta Montana was very quick. US 2 does not have any highway patrol and there doesn't seem to be a speed limit. A four laner road that is straight and flat, which dumps onto a two laner at the Fort Peck Indian Reservation at the Montana border. From there I flew into Malta. Stayed at the Royals Inn, great place and inexpensive to boot.
The next morning I took the US 87 cut-off at Havre heading to Great Falls. From there I connected with RT 200 through the Rogers Pass (5,610') over the Rocky Mountains toward Missoula and a oil change. RT 200 is a scenic ride and I recommend it to everyone.
I made Missoula by 6:00 PM, checked into the BMW dealer ship, made arrangements for the 1st appointment of the following morning. John is still working there and I belive him to be the best BMW mechanic that I know. He did the oil change and a safety inspection. John also informed me that when my bike sunk into the blacktop I bent the portion of the frame that holds the left saddlebag on. His suggestion was to leave it alone till I got back to Connecticut and use a crow bar on it. He had me on the road by 11:00 am.
My next "Port-Of-Call" is the Rainbow Family Gathering which this year is being held in Salmon River Mountains in Idaho. For more about the rainbows http://www.welcomehome.org
I pulled out of Missoula heading down US 93 south. This is a very twisty winding road following the Salom River. The Bitterroot Range has elevations of 12,000'. US 93 climbs up and down these mountain passes at speeds of 30 mph. Its a very dizzy ride and I do not recommend it if you are afraid of heights.
From US 93 I was suppose to cut-over on RT 75 to RT 21, but I read the map wrong and added an extra 200 miles to my days ride. As I was heading over the Sawtooth Pass (10,651') after getting back on track, the sun started to drop and the winding road was not looking like it was going to give into straightened rides where I could break the 35 mph I was traveling to Stanley 60 miles away. Luckily I found a small lodge and RV campground just over the pass. I camped the night, had a nice breakfast, did my laundry, and caught up on my journal entries.
Next stop the National Gathering of the Rainbows.
2001 07 07 Saturday
This years National Gathering of the Rainbow Family of Living Light was encamped over a half mile by three mile area in the Sawtooth Mountain range of the Salmon Challis National Forest located in Idaho. This area is northeast of Boise, ID about 120 miles, is full of black bear and wild grasses. The creeks are the spawning beds of Northwestern Salmon. Bear Meadow was home of the Rainbow Family of Living Light this year, approximately 20,000 hippies and thirty or so Forest Service police call it home for about two months. The Forest Service are constantly ad odds with the Rainbow Family.
I arrived on Saturday afternoon, it was a 30 mile dusty, dirt road to the "Welcome Home" entrance to the gathering. Welcome Home gave me a wonderful welcome, we talked about the gathering, how things were laid-out and who has arrived. I handed out "Tailored Made" smokes to everyone (commercial cigarettes). When I inquired about Bus Village they pointed to the entire parking area which probably at the moment in time possessed 5,000 cars and said "In there between all the cars". This was not a good sign. I started my bike and moved into the parking area looking for any familiar busses of Family members I may know. Not finding anyone or busses, I felt some good vibes from some Family members near A camp. I moved into the neighborhood and pitched my tent.
During the next 24 hours I wondered through the meadows and kitchens looking for old friends and family. I found Dwain of Pandagroulian kitchen whom I helped with last years gathering. He immediately took me in with open arms and put me to work as one of the chefs baking and preparing pizzas. We served about 500 people a night. This is no small task considering we are in the middle of the mountains without electricity, and supplies were delivered to us from "Maine Supply" three miles away by voluntaries on foot carrying one or two boxes of goods at a time.
Most of my five days at the Gathering involved baking and cooking for Pandagroulian kitchen. When I returned to my tent in Bus Village three miles away by foot early each morning around 4:00 or 5:00 AM, I made pizza deliveries to other camps and kitchens. I also connected with many other family brothers and sisters I have made friends with over the years of attending the gathering. We broke bread, shared campfire conversations, talked about things Rainbow -- past, present and future. I don't have any photos to show since most members of the Family enjoy their privacy and with the Forest Service ticketing and issuing court summons I generally do not take photos without permissions first.
On Thursday morning of the 5th I broke camp and headed out to Eugene, OR about 500 miles west of the Sawtooth range. I traveled on US 26 across the Aldrich, Ochoco, and the Cascade mountain ranges of Oregon. It was late night as I turned onto RT 126 high in the Cascade Divide, breaking all my rules of never driving over summit passes of 4,000 feet after nightfall. Deer, elk, and moose all extremely dangerous to motorcycles running on poorly marked mountain roads. I arived Eugene late midnight, cold and very tired from fourteen hours of non stop riding from Idaho.
When I pulled into the parking lot of Craig and Lewise's apartment complex, I knocked on their window asking for them to let me in. Craig's usual and wonderful sense of humor greeted me with "Get a room at an inn" he came down, opened the door and we exchanged the hugs of old friends who do not get a chance to see each other often enough.
Eugene has been a relaxed, comfortable time of cooking dinner for new friends and a special lady I meet. Rose was waiting in the check-out line of Wal-Mart when Craig, Lewise and I queued up behind her. It was but a moment before we exchanged glances and conversation of who we were and where I'm from occurred. Rose is from Kenya, who has lived in the Eugene area for the last thirteen years, she invited us to her home for Rum Punch and some BBQ. Rose and I have seem to hit-it-off well and I spent the last few nights at her house. I tend to wonder about the morning when I departed the Gathering the day before. Tim and John both preachers from Jesus camp formed a "circle" around me and my motorcycle to offer me blessings and asked God to deliver to me a companion male or female. I interrupted the prayer and indicated that female was more my preference, we all laughed of course. But meeting Rose and never once hitting any rain this trip, well ....
Tomorrow, Sunday is my depature for riding north. My time in Eugene has been well spent resting, washing, laundry and picking up supplies and items I belive will be necessery for the cold I'm sure to incounter. My copy of The Mile Post (ISBN 1-892154-05-6) arrived the other day at Craig's which covers mile by mile the roads of Alaska, Yukon Territory, British Columbia, Alberta and the Northwest Territories. Tonights plan is to study the book and create an itinerary of my ride to the Arctic Circle.
2001 07 11 Wednesday
No I didn't leave Sunday morning as planned I was having to good a time. Monday's departure was relaxed and very enjoyable. The ride some 485 miles north on I 5 has not changed in the twenty years since I last traveled up it. Slow and boring. By early evening I rode passed Portland OR, Seattle WA and into Vancouver BC. This is my first visit to Vancouver so I took the long route through the middle of downtown -- BC 99. Its an interesting city made up of skyscrapers all made of glass, as if the same architect designed the entire city. Tourism seems to be from the pacific rim, mostly Asians and a few Canadians.
Lions Gate bridge across Vancouver bay was closed down for repair, so I had to double back to Trans Canadian 1 to cross the bay. It probably added an hour and a half but it provided me additional sights of the city. Once back on track I started north on BC 99 through the Garibaldi Provincial Park. The saying is "From Sea to Sky" and its true. The journey starts in the Lions Bay and slow climbs Mount Garibaldi some 2,675 meters. It was dark and I didn't want to miss the scenic views so I motel-ed in Squamish.
The next morning I was up and ready to go the ride through Garibaldi Provincial Park. The ride is spectacular and has sights that are some of the best. It is a cool ride through snow capped mountains passes waterfalls, white water creeks and rivers. Deer and Black Bear are visible during the day which is unusual. Plan on speeds between 10 and 30 mph up and down grades of 13%, around hairpin curves.
As the mountains give way to the lower sloops of Marble Canyon Provincial Park, the ride warms and becomes hot, dry and faster. At Cache Creek BC 99 ends and its north on BC 97. This is a wide two laner through the Cariboo Valley. BC 97 is the Gold Rush trail, dotted along the side of the road are remains of cabins, farms and towns with names like 50 Mile, 100 Mile Inn, 125 Mile Depot.
As I neared Quesnel (the "s" isn't pronounced) after riding 450 miles with the last 100 miles or so with rain clouds blocking the sun and temperatures in the low 60s. I thought it best to stay in town. I found the Cariboo Hotel in downtown Quesnel. What a place. CA $52 / US $24 Luxury rooms, whirlpool tub (which I enjoyed), breakfast served in the room (no extra charge). I recommend this place to everyone.
The next morning I slept in, spent an hour on my journal and started north around 11:00 am. Just passed Prince George I pulled into Summit Lake to clean my visor and to stretch. I meet Neil, gassing up his Harley. We spoke and decided to ride together. Neil works for the US Forest Service as a database programer and has been assigned to the Arctic Wildlife Preserve. We have a common computing background and were both heading for the same place so it seamed natural to ride together. Our trip past the southern branch of Williston Lake took us through Mackenzie, Powder King Mountain and into the sleepy town of Chetwynd. Dinner time was at hand and we knew the short-cut up BC 29 wasn't going to be offering any gas or restaurants so we had our meal at the one and only diner in town. Yep Chinese food in British Columbia. I have had better.
BC 29 is a beautiful ride of scenic river views of the eastern branch of Williston Lake. The road fallows Hope river over Bennette Dam up through Charlie Lake Provincial Park and ends north of Fort Saint John about 55 miles on the Alaskan - Canadian Highway (AKA Alcan Hwy). From here its a straight shot to Anchorage approximately 1,500 miles.
2001 07 12 Thursday
WOW!
What a ride 420 miles. Leaving north into Wonowon started as a straight boring ride to Fort Nelson. North through Stone Mountain Provincial Park and Mucho Lake Provincial Park is a road built for motorcycling. Nothing but the best. BC 97 is a twisty ribbon with angled turns that hug a bike with sling shot precision.
BC 97 climbs Stone Mountain with a grade of 10% around tight turns and spectacular views of snow capped mountains in the distance and idealick green pastures in the foreground. As the Alcan slopes down toward Muncho Lake the highway takes on a life of its own. The forest closes into the two laner forcing it to become a narrow ribbon with bends and roller coster ripples, a bikers dream come true. But watch every curve and dip! We passed deer, moose, cariboo, black bear, beaver, otter and the occasional RV which seemed out of place -- trying to fit themselves into this beautiful ribbon of a road. At one point we came to a compleat stop to negotiate the road with two cariboo, who's position on the road was clearly I live here your the visitor so wait your turn. Neil and I had no problem, we don't argue with cariboo.
Past the tight canyon walls leading into Muncho Lake is ribbon of road cut neatly into the side of the avalanching mountains that sheer directly into the lake. BC 97 runs lake level and tries to find a happy median between following the contour of the lake and that of the mountain cliffs. Yep a motorcycle dream come true, an RV nightmare.
Finishing our 225 miles of motorcycle nirvana, is the Liard Hot Springs and Log Cabin Lodge. Yes you can strip-down and soak off the dust from the days ride.
2001 07 14 Saturday
The ride through Liard Plains was kind of "plain" the day was completely overcast with a few patches of light rain. Road construction was light, with a mixture of "Fresh Oil" and rain on the road. My bike, Neil's bike and all the other riders out here have a smooth coating upon them that seems to be reminiscent of '42 when the road was created.
Our ride brought us to Whitehorse and dinner at the Whitehorse BBQ Rib house and Salmon Pit. The food was delicious. For dessert we were treated to a late night sky of confusion. It was past 11:00 PM when I hit the sack last night and the sun was still up in full strength. My body kept saying night my eyes said day, my brain was lost. As I past the father and son playing ball in the playground of our campground at 11:30 PM I knew I had enter the land of the insane midnight sun.
2001 07 17 Tuesday
Its been a few days since my last journal entry. Currently I'm in Fairbanks Alaska, holding out for the rain to stop so I can make the run to the Arctic Circle. Probably a good place to pick up will be the ride from Whitehorse to now.
Whitehorse to Fairbanks is two days of riding. The road conditions are poor to middling so its slow going. West out of Whitehorse is smooth road with speeds of 70 mph to 75. Hains Junction is a small town with four gas stations, around these parts I guess one would consider it to be a big town. Neal and I fueled up at the Shell Station and restaurant. It turns out Rainbow Family members own and operate the cafe.
West is Kluane Lake, tight ribbon like roads ;-) great for bikers slow for the trucks and RVs. The Alcan winds itself around the shore of Klune Lake providing spectacular views of snow capped mountains in the distant horizon reflected in the smooth waters of the lake. Traveling west Neal planned a stop in Beaver Creek for gas. It was 27 miles further than he thought and we were concerned he would run short of gas before we reached Bear Creek. Things worked out fine. We reached Port Alcan the border of Alaska and the Yukon an hour or so later where the US Customs let us pass with two or three questions each. I guess with one look at our bikes they knew we had earned every inch of the Alcan and didn't need them to spoil our entry into the US.
Tok was our last stop for the days ridding. By then it was close to 10:30 PM, full day light. As we approached Tok the over cast skies that we had been riding under for the last three days gave way to beautiful clear blue sky with out a cloud. The sun became bright and hot, I got excited feeling the warmth on my face and the thought of it being late at "Night".
We camped in Tok for the night and the next day we departed some time past noon with only a three our ride to finish our journey to Fairbanks and the end of the Alaska Highway. At this point Neal and I split up since we were going in slightly different directions.
The ride from Tok to Fairbanks runs through Delta Junction which is the official end of the Alaskan Highway at the junction of the Richardson Highway. Both roads are very good and speeds of 90 mph and 100 are common. On the way into Fairbanks the highway passes Eielson Air Force base and I'm told is home to some 80,000 troops compared to Fairbank's population of 35,000.
I arrived Sunday late afternoon. Pulled into a local service station and got directions to the Trails End BMW shop. My front tire had completely cupped and my back tire was road flat from all the straight line ridding I've done. Cornering was getting tough and when the road was wet it I could feel the lack of traction. I found George the owner and he is a one man show at the end of a dirt road operating out of his home. At first I felt a bit of apprehension but as I spoke with George I realized his 40 years of servicing BMWs was going to be an assist to my bike. We made arrangements for the next day around 1:00 PM and he suggested I stay at Billie's Backpackers Hostel located down the street. I have never stayed at a hostel before but the experience has been nothing but wonderful. I have meet some of the most interesting people while waiting for my bike to be serviced and for the rain to pass so I can continue my journey all for the cost of $20 per night. http://www.alaskahostel.com
At the end of the next day I reported to George's around 6:00 PM to pick-up my bike. As I suspected It wasn't finished as planned. I noticed five or six BMWs passing the hostel heading down towards the end of the road to George's as I relaxed in the sun shine on the deck.
George immediately put me to work helping him service my bike. It took us about three hours to compleat his tasks, we had no interruptions since it was past closing hours. George talks out loud and loves to explain everything he is doing, I got one of the best service lessons I could ever hope for and a better understanding of the man. George's father operated a Harley dealership when he was a boy. He learned a lot about motorcycles. During the fifties he was stationed in Germany where he discovered the BMW. When he returned home he was the first to ride a BMW up the Alaskan Canadian Highway.
After we finished servicing my bike he showed me the bike he rode back in the fifties up the Alcan, started it up and explained to me how he planned next summer on the 50th anniversary of his trip up the Alan to ride the same bike down the Alacn. I think I just might be back next summer to ride with him.
I have also meet Wataru Asaho from Japan who is in the middle of a two year trip around the world on his Suzuki DR 250. This last year he rode from the bottom most tip of South America, through Central America, through North America, to Prudhoe Bay Alaska. Talk about cost to cost he road from the Antarctic to the Arctic, wow. Wataru can be reached by email at asano_w@yahoo.com or by telephone at 81-11-782-5242.
Also last night Scott Davis and Leon Begman came flying through Billie's Backpackers Hostel on a 5,000 five day Iron Butt run from Prudhoe Bay AK to Key West FL. They can be reached at mriderleon@yahoo.com
At this point its wait for the roads to dry out so I too can make a run up towards Prudhoe bay. From there its down to Haines to catch the ferry for a five day trip to Washington and my ride back east.
2001 07 19 Thursday
Yep
I finally made it to the circle. It was a twelve hour round trip ride through some of the easiest and roughest dirt road you can find in North America. Sounds like a contradiction, it is, most of the Forest Service road I have ridden in the lower 48 states are much worse than the Dalton Highway.
Construction areas are the roughest section of road. The work crews water down the road creating some of the slipperiest mud you can find on the planet. The road surface is made of chip sealant, dirt, and some salt composite when watered-down, you got gooey silty smooth mud. Plan on a 5 mph crawl through these sections which can last up to 30 miles of "Road Repair". Other sections cover an array from excellent (70 mph) to broken road surface with potato like rocks sticking up mixed with pot holes you can loose your front forks in or flatten a rim against. Just don't take you eye off the road to view the scenic vistas, pot holes, potatoes, and washboard ruts spring up suddenly.
The Pipe Lines runs alongside the highway or to be more accurate the Dalton Highway runs alongside the Alaskan Pipe Line. This road is remote, has very few services with distances of 300 miles or more without gas. The few stores and service stations charge a very health penny for their products and services. Gas is $2.55 per gallon of 87 unleaded. Forget any other grades of fuel other than diesel. Simply remember where you are when buying these products and you'll think they are cheap.
It was a perfect ridding day, the day before it rained which watered down the road and provided enough time for things to dry. There are no "night fall" limitations so travel time is unlimited to when I wanted to begin my journey. Dust was down to a minimum, mud was scarce, and the ride was blessed as I have had God watching over me this whole trip. I belive John and Tim's wishes have come true for me.
As I watched over the road, scanning for the potato or pot hole, the sunshine washed over my face, with crystal clear blue sky soaking the distant mountains and vistas covering the top of the Earth as a canopy protecting the ground below it. All the sun could do is follow the sky and horizon around but could never climb high enough to it's dominating position, that I have become conditioned to expect. The sun totally subordinated to the land and the sky, who have demanded the sun to shine nightly....
Ok, I guess it time to start my travels back to Connecticut, time to head toward Haines for the ferry to Vancouver. Its a 600 mile ride, the ferry leaves 6 am Saturday morning, time to go!
2001 07 21 Saturday
I took the approach of making a Thursday, mad dash for Haines 700 miles away. But before I could begin I had promised George from Trails End BMW I would stop in for quick visit and a telling of my trip up the Dalton Highway Wednesday the day before.
George was in his usual "Ol Cocker" mode of operation. Our conversation started with "Oh I have so many interruptions, promised to remove this transmission by 1:00 PM". We preceded to discuss my trip from the day before up the Dalton. I asked if it was possible to snap a few more photos of George's R-60 and R-68 BMWs. "I got a few minutes to pull them out, but nothing fancy, just a quick photo-op". I don't know, but I think George took a liking of me and offered a ride in his sidecar.
I tried to offer a hart felt good-by after the ride and photo-op but George was not going to give any satisfaction of excepting any compliments from me nor a handshake, he of curse was being the "Ol Cocker". As I maneuvered my bike around his driveway I noticed George in my rear-view mirror smiling and wink of a good-by good-luck to me, along with a "Just keep it on the road".
I cruised back down the highway I had traveled to Fairbanks on. Through Delta Junction, Tok, Canadian / US Customs, Beaver Creek, the "Road Construction", and into Haines Junction around 12:15 am. My plan was to refuel and finish the last 200 miles of the 700 mile to Haines and the ferry to Bellingham, WA. It looked good I covered the first 500 miles in twelve hours I wasn't tired, ready to go.
Nope! All four gas stations shut-off their pumps at midnight. I tried the bar (the only open business) for suggestions and was offered a drink. On the third drink and now armed with the knowledge that even if I did get some gas the border was also closed at midnight,
I was offered a room up-stairs in the hotel for $65 Canadian / $33 US. Turned out to be the best thing.
Friday morning after gassing-up and having breakfast I started down the Haines Highway. What a view! Of all the roads I have driven on in BC, YK, AK this was by far the best. Glaciers ever so slowly forming mountain views with snowcapped hats within reach of my feasting eyes as I slowed to 50 mph, savoring every smooth rolling mile to Haines. I arrived much latter than I planned, but the motorcycle riding "movie" was perfect.
Haines is a small sea town with an active tourism trade due to the ferry. I located the ferry terminal four miles east of town. As I inquired about stand-by passage for Saturday, the next morning I told the ship was booked-up and I would better serve myself by sticking to the Monday reservation I booked early that morning while having breakfast in Haines Junction.
I located a hostel for the night, $14 US, and decided I would try the next morning anyway. Well here I am on Saturday's passage to Bellingham, WA. Yep I got on no problems. Pitched my tent in tent city on the stern of the ship along with 12 others. All the passengers have settled in for the four day cruise back to the "lower 48 ". The view is spectacular. Glaciers, mountains, green costal by-ways slipping in and out of the morning sun, whales flapping and sunning themselves in the clear cold water of Southeastern Alaska.
2001 07 25 Wednesday
The "cruise" through the fjords of the Alexander Archipelago provides limited port access from Skagway through to Haines, Janeau (Alaska capitol), Petersburg, Wrangell, Ketchikan, Prince Rupert with the final destination of Bellingham Washington. I use the term cruise but this is truly a ferry ride that lasts for four days - three nights. There isn't much to do. Most conversations with fellow ferry-ers all start with past and future travel plans and adventures. As the days wear on conversations turn to occupations, personal philosophy, and finally down to simple conversations of card games, sleeping reports, Alaskan weather, and of course todays food offering from the galley. Its true the over priced "fresh" pastries never get marked down as they become obviously day old and three day old pastries.
The scenery is just as spectacular as the rest of the Yukon and Alaska. Mountains with glaciers ever so slowly moving down the slops. This trip, as I have been told most trips are fogged in most of the time. So I have few photos of the costal ways or the "Marine Highway" as its called. Most of the population lives along the southeast cost of Alaska and is only reachable by ferry or plane travel. To place all this into perspective image 1/3 to 1/2 of the lower 48 states is Alaska -- Mississippi River on the west. With the Great Lakes to the north and the Gulf of Mexico to the south, the Appalachian Mountains along with Florida on the east. Now remember the population of Alaska is about 850,000 with everyone living around the cost of the Gulf of Mexico and Western Florida. Yep, you got wilderness. 100% pure back woods, undiluted natural fresh air and mountain scenery.
The waterways of the Alaskan Marine Highway sports ferry traffic, small air traffic using the water for take off and landings, fishing boats, water taxes, local sail boats, International processing -- fishing boats, and cruise ships. This highway is a very busy place with summer days that last 18 hours each.
We had a few nights and days with windy weather so my tent required ducktape maintenance to keep it from blowing overboard. The ferry was divided into four dormitory sections. Tent Village, Deck Chair Refuge Camp, Lounge City, and Forward Town. As passengers embarked with their belongings they spread out and claimed a small spot for themselves and fended off the approaching boredom with as many strategies as there are passengers. Mine called for a 10 x 10 foot tent, lots of ducktape, and as much conversation I could muster with my fellow passengers over the four days. I meet many interesting people some with common interests with mine and others with interesting backgrounds and ideas.
The ferry arrived early Tuesday morning around 7:00 AM as we prepared our vehicles for deportation the smell of the car deck was strong from four days of pet owners who walked their dogs and the crewman who washed the deck down with sea water. I left my helmet hanging from my handlebars for the length of the trip. I smelled this mess for the next 400 miles back down to Eugene, OR. A lesson learned!
2001 07 28 Saturday
Its time to start my cross country journey back home and end my traveling. The last few days in Oregon have been relaxed and pleasant. Rose and I took a midweek trip up through the central Oregon coast via US Highway 101. In all my travels up and down 101 I never did the Oregon's Central Costal route. Its very reminiscent of Northern California's 101 coast road.
Lots of sharp hairpin turns, scenic views of ocean and mountain merging hundreds of feet below the highway, constant strong winds blowing RVs and motorcyclists along their appointed paths.
Oregon's coast has plenty to offer. Bed & Breakfasts, Ocean port towns, fishing excursions, camping, hiking, gift shopping, sea food restaurants. You name it, its here, from inexpensive to elegant and wallet breaking. Romantic hotels on the beach with Indian Casinos for a nights entertainment, its all here.
We took two days to explore a few miles of the coast. In Newport we found Captain Don and his US Coast Guard inflatable orange rescue craft which travels 80 mph on the water. The ride is exhilarating, with sea water sparing in your face. Captain Don provides Orange "Jump Suites" the same ones the Coast Guard uses, goggles, and of course open comical cometary of the high speed ride.
After our tour of the Oregon Coast it was time to return to Eugene and plan my ride to the East Coast. Tomorrow it will be up early and east on US 20 or 26 to Boise Idaho. My plan is to follow pieces of 20 and 26 through to Casper Wyoming then down to Ogallala Nebraska and Interstate 80. It looks like the straightest route back through the Rocky Mountains without having to go through Salt Lake City. Once on I 80 it will be quick trip across the Great Plains, Chicago, and up the Eastern Seaboard to Connecticut.
2001 08 05 Sunday
The trip across the US was fast, furriest, and knuckle clinching. Simply a very demanding trip. Five days, 600 miles each day. My planned route changed slightly, basically I left east out of Eugene, OR on US 20. Followed it to Idaho where I picked up Interstate 84. The road surface was so smooth and silent running I decided to stay on the Interstate. With speeds of 90 and 95 mph I made quick time of Idaho. It was Interstate 80 in Wyoming that things took a turn for the knuckle clinching. Non-Stop 40 mph winds.
Hour after hour my bike leaned-into the wind sucking gas at a slow 60 mph. That best I could hope for was staying in my own lane of traffic as the trucks screamed by at 80 mph. I rested often asking the locals "when does the wind let up" each time I heard the same response "It don't, till you go far enough east where the trees grow". About 1,200 miles later, three days of being beaten like a boxer, I finally found trees in Eastern Iowa. There is no reprieve from Interstate 80, next up, was the Chicago to Cleveland run. Interstate 80.... its been almost 15 years since I ran its blacktop and know I remember why I stayed off of it all these years. Its a terrible biking road.
Pennsylvania on the other hand is a smooth back country ride and always worth the mileage. Once east of PA I was within a rocks throw of being home. As I arrived back into town Hurricane, Action Jackson, and Turbo three of my club members came to great me with a heroes welcome. With a celebrator round of drinks I shared tells of my trip and photos that I have brought back with me.
I'm glad I'm back home, I've had a great time and an adventure of riding to the Circle. I've made many new friends on the road and had the opportunity to enjoy some of the worlds greatest offerings. Next trip.... Africa
Ride On!
Star
A friend whom I haven't talked to in over five years stopped by Saturday morning as I was packing. He is a fellow biker who has travelled a lot and was offering to help. With his assistance we got my stuff packed and the new bulb installed on my bike. Speaking of my headlight I replaced the stock bulb that came with the bike with a PIAA heligion bright white bulb when I bought my bike. I think its one of the most important things to do. With the added brilliance of the bulb, car drivers have a better chance of spotting me on the road. Considering this trip to be approximately 15,000 miles, I want to give every driver I encounter a better chance to see me.
The duffel bags have individual responsibilities as well. One is for my clothing and dirty laundry. The other for camping equipment. Since everything is sorted out and stored in specific containers its easy to find things and to know what is missing with a glance. I hate having to turn back because I forgot an important item.
From US 93 I was suppose to cut-over on RT 75 to RT 21, but I read the map wrong and added an extra 200 miles to my days ride. As I was heading over the Sawtooth Pass (10,651') after getting back on track, the sun started to drop and the winding road was not looking like it was going to give into straightened rides where I could break the 35 mph I was traveling to Stanley 60 miles away. Luckily I found a small lodge and RV campground just over the pass. I camped the night, had a nice breakfast, did my laundry, and caught up on my journal entries.
Eugene has been a relaxed, comfortable time of cooking dinner for new friends and a special lady I meet. Rose was waiting in the check-out line of Wal-Mart when Craig, Lewise and I queued up behind her. It was but a moment before we exchanged glances and conversation of who we were and where I'm from occurred. Rose is from Kenya, who has lived in the Eugene area for the last thirteen years, she invited us to her home for Rum Punch and some BBQ. Rose and I have seem to hit-it-off well and I spent the last few nights at her house. I tend to wonder about the morning when I departed the Gathering the day before. Tim and John both preachers from Jesus camp formed a "circle" around me and my motorcycle to offer me blessings and asked God to deliver to me a companion male or female. I interrupted the prayer and indicated that female was more my preference, we all laughed of course. But meeting Rose and never once hitting any rain this trip, well ....
As the mountains give way to the lower sloops of Marble Canyon Provincial Park, the ride warms and becomes hot, dry and faster. At Cache Creek BC 99 ends and its north on BC 97. This is a wide two laner through the Cariboo Valley. BC 97 is the Gold Rush trail, dotted along the side of the road are remains of cabins, farms and towns with names like 50 Mile, 100 Mile Inn, 125 Mile Depot.
The next morning I slept in, spent an hour on my journal and started north around 11:00 am. Just passed Prince George I pulled into Summit Lake to clean my visor and to stretch. I meet Neil, gassing up his Harley. We spoke and decided to ride together. Neil works for the US Forest Service as a database programer and has been assigned to the Arctic Wildlife Preserve. We have a common computing background and were both heading for the same place so it seamed natural to ride together. Our trip past the southern branch of Williston Lake took us through Mackenzie, Powder King Mountain and into the sleepy town of Chetwynd. Dinner time was at hand and we knew the short-cut up BC 29 wasn't going to be offering any gas or restaurants so we had our meal at the one and only diner in town. Yep Chinese food in British Columbia. I have had better.
BC 97 climbs Stone Mountain with a grade of 10% around tight turns and spectacular views of snow capped mountains in the distance and idealick green pastures in the foreground. As the Alcan slopes down toward Muncho Lake the highway takes on a life of its own. The forest closes into the two laner forcing it to become a narrow ribbon with bends and roller coster ripples, a bikers dream come true. But watch every curve and dip! We passed deer, moose, cariboo, black bear, beaver, otter and the occasional RV which seemed out of place -- trying to fit themselves into this beautiful ribbon of a road. At one point we came to a compleat stop to negotiate the road with two cariboo, who's position on the road was clearly I live here your the visitor so wait your turn. Neil and I had no problem, we don't argue with cariboo.
Past the tight canyon walls leading into Muncho Lake is ribbon of road cut neatly into the side of the avalanching mountains that sheer directly into the lake. BC 97 runs lake level and tries to find a happy median between following the contour of the lake and that of the mountain cliffs. Yep a motorcycle dream come true, an RV nightmare.
Finishing our 225 miles of motorcycle nirvana, is the Liard Hot Springs and Log Cabin Lodge. Yes you can strip-down and soak off the dust from the days ride.
Whitehorse to Fairbanks is two days of riding. The road conditions are poor to middling so its slow going. West out of Whitehorse is smooth road with speeds of 70 mph to 75. Hains Junction is a small town with four gas stations, around these parts I guess one would consider it to be a big town. Neal and I fueled up at the Shell Station and restaurant. It turns out Rainbow Family members own and operate the cafe.
West is Kluane Lake, tight ribbon like roads ;-) great for bikers slow for the trucks and RVs. The Alcan winds itself around the shore of Klune Lake providing spectacular views of snow capped mountains in the distant horizon reflected in the smooth waters of the lake. Traveling west Neal planned a stop in Beaver Creek for gas. It was 27 miles further than he thought and we were concerned he would run short of gas before we reached Bear Creek. Things worked out fine. We reached Port Alcan the border of Alaska and the Yukon an hour or so later where the US Customs let us pass with two or three questions each. I guess with one look at our bikes they knew we had earned every inch of the Alcan and didn't need them to spoil our entry into the US.
I arrived Sunday late afternoon. Pulled into a local service station and got directions to the Trails End BMW shop. My front tire had completely cupped and my back tire was road flat from all the straight line ridding I've done. Cornering was getting tough and when the road was wet it I could feel the lack of traction. I found George the owner and he is a one man show at the end of a dirt road operating out of his home. At first I felt a bit of apprehension but as I spoke with George I realized his 40 years of servicing BMWs was going to be an assist to my bike. We made arrangements for the next day around 1:00 PM and he suggested I stay at Billie's Backpackers Hostel located down the street. I have never stayed at a hostel before but the experience has been nothing but wonderful. I have meet some of the most interesting people while waiting for my bike to be serviced and for the rain to pass so I can continue my journey all for the cost of $20 per night. http://www.alaskahostel.com
I have also meet Wataru Asaho from Japan who is in the middle of a two year trip around the world on his Suzuki DR 250. This last year he rode from the bottom most tip of South America, through Central America, through North America, to Prudhoe Bay Alaska. Talk about cost to cost he road from the Antarctic to the Arctic, wow. Wataru can be reached by email at asano_w@yahoo.com or by telephone at 81-11-782-5242.
Also last night Scott Davis and Leon Begman came flying through Billie's Backpackers Hostel on a 5,000 five day Iron Butt run from Prudhoe Bay AK to Key West FL. They can be reached at mriderleon@yahoo.com
I finally made it to the circle. It was a twelve hour round trip ride through some of the easiest and roughest dirt road you can find in North America. Sounds like a contradiction, it is, most of the Forest Service road I have ridden in the lower 48 states are much worse than the Dalton Highway.
As I watched over the road, scanning for the potato or pot hole, the sunshine washed over my face, with crystal clear blue sky soaking the distant mountains and vistas covering the top of the Earth as a canopy protecting the ground below it. All the sun could do is follow the sky and horizon around but could never climb high enough to it's dominating position, that I have become conditioned to expect. The sun totally subordinated to the land and the sky, who have demanded the sun to shine nightly....
George was in his usual "Ol Cocker" mode of operation. Our conversation started with "Oh I have so many interruptions, promised to remove this transmission by 1:00 PM". We preceded to discuss my trip from the day before up the Dalton. I asked if it was possible to snap a few more photos of George's R-60 and R-68 BMWs. "I got a few minutes to pull them out, but nothing fancy, just a quick photo-op". I don't know, but I think George took a liking of me and offered a ride in his sidecar.
I tried to offer a hart felt good-by after the ride and photo-op but George was not going to give any satisfaction of excepting any compliments from me nor a handshake, he of curse was being the "Ol Cocker". As I maneuvered my bike around his driveway I noticed George in my rear-view mirror smiling and wink of a good-by good-luck to me, along with a "Just keep it on the road".
I cruised back down the highway I had traveled to Fairbanks on. Through Delta Junction, Tok, Canadian / US Customs, Beaver Creek, the "Road Construction", and into Haines Junction around 12:15 am. My plan was to refuel and finish the last 200 miles of the 700 mile to Haines and the ferry to Bellingham, WA. It looked good I covered the first 500 miles in twelve hours I wasn't tired, ready to go.
Nope! All four gas stations shut-off their pumps at midnight. I tried the bar (the only open business) for suggestions and was offered a drink. On the third drink and now armed with the knowledge that even if I did get some gas the border was also closed at midnight,
I was offered a room up-stairs in the hotel for $65 Canadian / $33 US. Turned out to be the best thing.
Friday morning after gassing-up and having breakfast I started down the Haines Highway. What a view! Of all the roads I have driven on in BC, YK, AK this was by far the best. Glaciers ever so slowly forming mountain views with snowcapped hats within reach of my feasting eyes as I slowed to 50 mph, savoring every smooth rolling mile to Haines. I arrived much latter than I planned, but the motorcycle riding "movie" was perfect.
Haines is a small sea town with an active tourism trade due to the ferry. I located the ferry terminal four miles east of town. As I inquired about stand-by passage for Saturday, the next morning I told the ship was booked-up and I would better serve myself by sticking to the Monday reservation I booked early that morning while having breakfast in Haines Junction.
The waterways of the Alaskan Marine Highway sports ferry traffic, small air traffic using the water for take off and landings, fishing boats, water taxes, local sail boats, International processing -- fishing boats, and cruise ships. This highway is a very busy place with summer days that last 18 hours each.
We had a few nights and days with windy weather so my tent required ducktape maintenance to keep it from blowing overboard. The ferry was divided into four dormitory sections. Tent Village, Deck Chair Refuge Camp, Lounge City, and Forward Town. As passengers embarked with their belongings they spread out and claimed a small spot for themselves and fended off the approaching boredom with as many strategies as there are passengers. Mine called for a 10 x 10 foot tent, lots of ducktape, and as much conversation I could muster with my fellow passengers over the four days. I meet many interesting people some with common interests with mine and others with interesting backgrounds and ideas.
Its time to start my cross country journey back home and end my traveling. The last few days in Oregon have been relaxed and pleasant. Rose and I took a midweek trip up through the central Oregon coast via US Highway 101. In all my travels up and down 101 I never did the Oregon's Central Costal route. Its very reminiscent of Northern California's 101 coast road.
Lots of sharp hairpin turns, scenic views of ocean and mountain merging hundreds of feet below the highway, constant strong winds blowing RVs and motorcyclists along their appointed paths.
After our tour of the Oregon Coast it was time to return to Eugene and plan my ride to the East Coast. Tomorrow it will be up early and east on US 20 or 26 to Boise Idaho. My plan is to follow pieces of 20 and 26 through to Casper Wyoming then down to Ogallala Nebraska and Interstate 80. It looks like the straightest route back through the Rocky Mountains without having to go through Salt Lake City. Once on I 80 it will be quick trip across the Great Plains, Chicago, and up the Eastern Seaboard to Connecticut.